Deschutes River Crossing
January 4, 2003
The Longed for Columbia River
Early Oregon Trail emigrants floated down the Columbia River or followed its south bank from Fort Walla Walla. In the 1840s travelers established an alternate route from the Umatilla River to The Dalles across the Columbia Plateau. The new route, 4 to 12 miles south of the river, shortened the journey to the Willamette Valley, but as William J. Watson noted in ’49, emigrants found the road “very dusty” and traveled long distances “without water or wood,” Emigrants reached the Columbia River a few miles to the east near Biggs, and some were disappointed by what they found.
“About midnight we reached the longed for Columbia River, but alas! what a disappointment. We had thought that we would find the Promised Land, we had set our hopes on a new Eden! Not so! We found a dry and arid land where there was not a piece of wood, not even a stick, and where a violent wind carried clouds of dust with it. That was it, that was all we found there. We had to take shelter behind our waggons to avoid being buried in the sand that the wind hurled at us with unbelievable violence. We ate a few biscuits and slept as best we could.”
Oregon Trail emigrants reached the Columbia River after an arduous trek across the dry and dusty Columbia Plateau, where Harriet A. Loughary, emigrant of 1864, noted “nothing indicates life except an occasional Juniper tree.” Weary emigrants found little comfort on the plateau: water, firewood, and browse for livestock was scarce. Honore-Timothee Lempfrit, emigrant of 1848, descended the bluffs to the Columbia River and exclaimed, “Our poor animals were exhausted by fatigue and were at the point of collapse from inanition.” Some emigrants reached this site and were forced to lighten their loads before crossing the river.
” When we finally reached the Des Chutes region we were obliged to do exactly what those before us had done, doubtless with no lighter hearts than ours. We cast aside every article that we could possibly spare. One wagon was shaved and whittled down as much as was consistent with strength and safety. All of our belongings were then put into this one, and the other perfectly good wagon left standing disconsolately beside the road. Oh, it was truly heart-breaking! But it had to be done. There was no use repining. Here, too, we parted with our cheery little sheet-iron cook stove, which had been a real Jov and comfort to us all the way across the plains. Words cannot tell how I felt about leaving all these good things of ours, especially the stove, after we had carried them so far.” Esther M. Lockhart; emigrant of 1851 (Recollection)
Friendships Not Easily Severed
Oregon Trail emigrants traveling across the Columbia Plateau caught their first view of what William J. Watson, emigrant of 1849, called the “long – looked for Columbia” from the crest of a hill near Biggs. With Mt. Hood towering majestically to the southwest and the Columbia River below, the day was fast approaching when emigrants would part company to become settlers. Relief near journey’s end was surely offset by melancholy.
“this morning our party is separated after months of toil and hardships, dangers and difficulties freely helping to bear each others burden, begets a friendship not easily severed. All of the wagons go over the mountains except our own. We start alone toward The Dalles…” Harriet A. Loughary; August 24, 1864
Deschutes River Crossing
River crossings were difficult for Oregon Trail emigrant and the Deschutes River was no exception. John McAllister, emigrant of 1852, warned “danger attends the crosage here.. many large rocks and at the same time a very rapid current.” Emigrants, wagons, and livestock all had to cross the river and casualties were common. Amelia Hadley, emigrant of 1851, noted a canoe “bottom side up, with a pair of boots tied in the capstern.” Early emigrants often hired local Indians to assist at this river crossing. During the 1850s pioneer entrepeneurs seized control of the ford and offered expensive ferry service. A toll bridge was established by 1864.
“…we drove four miles to Des Chutes River, a rapid stream heading in the mountain and one hundred fifty yards wide. the wind being high we could not ferry. We then concluded to ford it. The ferryman declared all would be lost, telling enormous lies to alarm us, but we employed an Indian guide who rode before each wagon, giving us the course to the island, the ford being very crooked; he then rode in front of one team, the rest following in a string, the course being nearly straight across the second channel. We paid him $2 for his services, all being across safe and dry. Our ferriage would have been $15; thus we saved $13 by fording.”
Indians of the Deschutes
After crossing the Deschutes most Oregon Trail emigrants traveled south of the Columbia and did not see the large Indian villages at nearby Celilo Falls. Indians were not scarce at this river crossing, however, Elizabeth Dixon Smith, emigrant of 1847 exclaimed “the Indians are as thick as hops here.” Although emigrants often found native people helpful, if not essential to survival, cultural diferences were vast and ignorance rarely overcome.
That Indian, whose untutored mind
|Lives far retird–a kanion deep, a solitary dell,
A gloomy shade–’tis there he deigns to dwell.
What is his food, when naught but rocks around
Are seen? No fields of plenty ther to clothe the ground.
His raiment, also scant, to shield his naked form,
No robes of beasts, nor pelts, nor furs, to guard from the storm.
And when with food he chance to break his fast,
|He finds no wood to cook his limited repast.
Alas, what then? The salmon and the salmon trout,
In that mad stream are seen to gambol about.
By him prepared upon the rocks, or hung on slender poles,
Not far above, on steep decline, where furious water rolls,
He dries his food, and thus ’tis savd from future harm…”
Riley Root; September 2, 1848
The Deschutes River drains the eastern slopes of the Cascade Range and flows from Central Oregon to the Columbia River. Here, near its confluence with the Columbia, the Deschutes flows through a chasm that Riley Root, emigrant of 1848, compared to “the valley of Sinbad the sailor.” Oregon Trail emigrants usually arrived at this site in the late afternoon, and after a perilous river crossing they ascended the hill immediately to the west, camping at the summit. Amelia Hadley described this ascent in 1851 as “almost insurmountable.”The emigrant’s route is still visible across the river, particularly in early morning or late evening light.
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Back to our trip
“After we had got across the river we stopped for a few moments to debate whether we should push on further ahead. We were faced with a very steep hill to climb…the Captain was the first to get up the hill and to do so he had to use our four pairs of oxen as well as his own. Thus he had eight pairs and despite this long string of oxen he had the utmost difficulty in reaching the top of the hill. After this he came down for us and we managed to get up the hill quite well. When we arrived at thesummit we found a nice little spot to set up our camp.”
January 3, 2003
Oregon Trail emigrants labored for days to cross the Blue Mountains on a road that P. V. Crawford , emigrant of 1851, described as “very sidling, rough and stony.” Maria Parsons Belshaw, emigrant of 1853, exclaimed, “I never saw as crooked a road in my life.” The trail through these mountains was indeed arduous, but emigrants like Samuel Dexter Francis in 1861 were not the only ones affected by climbing “the hills, up and down,” the Blues also took their toll on exhausted livestock and worn-out wagons.
“Hard times. many catttle are failing and all are very poor and a good nmany get lost among the thick timber. Agood many wagons are left, some broken and some good and aound because the cattle are not able to take them along.” Cecilia Adams and Parthenia Blank; October 4-7, 1852
Brow of the Mountain
Missionary emigrant Honore-Timothee Lempfrit stood on a hill near this site in 1848 and observed, “we had a new horizon. It seemed as though we saw a vast expanse of sea in the distance, for the scorched prairies give the landscape a bluish hue.” Unlike Rev. Lempfrit, however, most emigrants cast their eyes beyond the valley below toward what many believed was the last great obstacle between them and the Willamette Valley–the snow-capped volcanic peaks of the Cascade mountains. The dry and dusty Columbia Plateau, however, was soon to prove no average adventure for weary emigrants.
“From the brow of the Mountain, we had a fine view of the Cascade range, fifty miles distant, forming the Western boundary of the valley, stretching far to the North and South, with its lofty peaks of eternal snow rising among the clouds.”
A Fine Escape
Oregon Trail emigrants generally crossed the Blue Mountains during the months of August, September, and October. Emigrants traveling ear;y in the year often had to clear the trail of debris left in the wake of winter storms, and those reaching the Blues by autumn faced the threat of snow. snow buried the already scarce grazing for livestock, it made difficult hills impossible to climb, and the cold was almost certain death for sick emigrants.
“this morning we saw some packers from the back companies. they say the snow is nearly knee deep and they are camped there. Most deplorable, indeed. We made a fine exscape, for which we thank God.”
The Long Road Down
Oregon Trail emigrants typically reached Deadman Pass, then known as Crawford Hill, after three days travel over what Edward Evans Parrish, emigrant of 1844, called “the worst road yet.” the descent from this site to the banks of the Umatilla River, noted George N. Taylor in 1853, was “steep but not sideling.” Once down the hill, emigrants camped along the Umatilla River, and many like Cecelia Adams and Parthenia Blank, emigrants of 1852, found the valley “literally dotted with ponies.”
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“this day got an early start; in a few miles we came through the thick timber and came to large pines. the road smoother and not so hilly directly we came out of the pines and went down a long hill into the Umatilla Valley; the bottom and bluffs covered with Indian ponies and horses, too. came to the Umatilla river and camped.” Loren B. Hastings; October 8, 1847
More than 50,000 emigrants traveled west on the Oregon Trail between 1840 and 1850 the constant stream of wagons and livestock charted the course of Oregon’s future, and in some places indelibly etched the landscape with stark evidence of the great emigrant adventure–wagon ruts!
Although much physical evidence of the trail has been destroyed by road construction, logging, and agricultural practices, it is still possible to find wagon scars. The most common scars are trenches, little wider than a wagon, which have been eroded by the elements. Two parallel wagon trenches indicating the emigrant route down this edge of the Blue Mountains may be seen near this site.
Guides, Pilots and Captains
Prior to 1840 only mountain-men, fur traders and missionaries traveled overland to the Pacific Coast. Early emigrants and missionaries traveled under the protection of fur-trade caravans. the decline of the fur-trade found many mountain-men eager to hire-on as guides or pilots–the experienced fur-trader John Gantt was hired by the first large emigration in 1843 to pilot as farr as fort Hall, wher Dr. Marcus whitman assumed the task. by the early 1850s there were many experienced overland travelers, well established routes and published guidebooks for emigrants to follow. Instead of employing mountain-men as guides, pilots or captains were often selected from among the veteran emigrants, and wagon trains were generally organized with strict military discipline. the captain’s responsibility was tremendous and often the need to impart trail discipline to greenhorn emigrants was met with resentment.
“The captain wanted us to carry on further. We had three waggons with us, all the rest had lagged behind. An unusual stratagem for preventing the Captain from pushing on was conceived by the people in the waggons behind us. All of a sudden one of their guides came galloping up and reported to the Captain that one of their waggons had overturned as it was going down the hill. Two men had been crushed under the weight of the vehicle. Can you imagine such agonizing news! At once I spurred my horse and we all went to the help of these unfortunate men. Soon however we learned that it was only a ruse to make us go back. It was a false alarm!”Honore-Timothee Lempfrit; September 9-10, 1848
Emigrant Springs State Park
December 31, 2002
Superior Facilities for Those who Follow
Westward emigration on the Oregon Trail was an annual event for more than twenty years, and with each passing year the route improved until it was eventually replaced by railroads and modern highways. Early emigrants blazed trails and established routes, and in the Blue Mountains many along with James W. Nesmith, emigrant of 1843, “went in advance and cut timber all day.” Although later emigrants found a well- worn path to Oregon, they too often had to clear the trail of rocks, fallen trees, and other debris.
“…We were obliged to ascend and descend three very bad hills, and to pass over eight miles of a very rough and difficult road, a portion of it running through a track heavily timbered with pine. We cut through this a road for the wagons, and it now offers much superior failities for those who follow.”
Water is scarce in the steep, forested slopes of the Blue Mountains and it is often found only at the bottom of steep ravines. Although forage for livestock is plentiful, it is widely scattered among the trees. Oregon Trail emigrants quickly discovered that livestock could not be allowed to range too freely. Many along with Honore-Timothee Lempfrit, emigrant of 1848, found “Nearly all of them strayed during the night…consequently when morning came we found ourselves without any oxen.” Although the search for lost animals was a common experience, more than livestock could be lost in the forest.
“Could not find all of our cattle, yoked up what cattle we found and moved one mile and camped.
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Before night we went back and found the balance of our oxen. While we were hunting cattle today, one lady (Mrs. Thatcher) was discovered walking very briskly in the thick timber and asked which way she was traveling, she said she was going to the wagons and wondered what was the reason she could not see them; but when we told that she was one-half mile from the wagons and going in a contrary direction, she was not a little surprised and concluded in such thick timber as this she would not undertake to hunt cattle.” Loren B. Hastings; October 7, 1847
Oregon Trail emigrants usually reached this site after two days of arduous travel from the Grande RondeValley through the eastern slopes of the Blue Mountains. Here James W. Nesmith, emigrant of 1843, found “mountains covered with evergreen trees which remind me of the scenes of my childhood.” However, many overlanders like Harriet Loughary, emigrant of 1864, found terror in these mountains as “Panthers and wolves made the night hideous with their screaming.” with “timber so thick…that you couldn’t see a man 10 steps,” according to William T. Newby, emigrant of 1841, the steep and forested Blues could be frightening indeed!
“…it was then sun-down and the road back to our camp was through heavy timber, which appears dark in daylight; we started back and met our little sister coming after us on horseback; we went back all the way in a hard run and just before we reached the camp met a man, who seeing we were disconcerted thought he would have some fun; he told us it was three miles back to the camp, and through the darkest road he ever saw, or heard of; he went on and as we were then about ready to give up with fatigue, we almost concluded to wait till morning among the trees and then find our way back or wait their coming, when we met Father who was more uneasy if possible than we, and who was quite out of patience at our ludicrous mistake at least we considered it ludicrous when we got time to laugh: In running I wore the soles off my moccasins against the sharp stones, and blisterd my feet before I got near the camp.” Abigail Jane Scott: September 4, 1852
Pipe of Peace
Emigrant Springs is a campground today just as it was for Oregon Trail emigrants. Long before emigration, however, Native Americans also took advantage of this site’s abundant water and found shelter among the towering trees. Although relations between emigrants and Indians were generally positive in the Blue Mountains, cultural differences were always evident.
“Soon after going into camp two Indians of the Nez Perce tribe visited our camp and, without any invitation, concluded to remain with us all night….we gave them their supper, which seemed to please them very much. and by the way they caused the food to disapear one would think this was their first supper for a month past. …After supper was over all had to partake of the pipe of peace. finally, the pipe was passed to Mrs. Burns, who was rather inclined to rebel, never having smoked tobacco, and then the thought of putting the stem of that old pipe in her mouth was to her worse than taking a dose of castor oil. She gently took her apron and with it wiped the stem of the pipe, and then merely touched the stem to her lips. this act of hers caused a smile to come over the countenance of both Indians…” E.W Conyers; August 31, 1852
Weary Months of Travel
Oregon Trail emigrants generally crossed the Blue Mountains during the month of August, September, and October. Emigrants traveling early in the year often cleared the trail of windfall and debris left in the wake of winter storms. Although the trail was open for those reaching the Blues by autumn, drizzling rain and the threat of snow was an added burden. Regardles of the time of year, many overlanders, along with Amelia Stewart Knight, emigrant of 1853, were “delighted with the prospect, of being so near the timber again, after weary months of travel, on the dry dusty sage plains.”
“…it is raining this morning, we are in the valley skirted by snow crested pine covered mountains. we are noonin on the summit of the Blue mountains we have been coming up all the forenoon. the horses are very tired. drizzling all the time too we travailed till late through a cold rain.” Many Louisa Black; September 10, 1864
Recovering the Lost Trail
“To you who read or hear my words, I conjure you to take heed and consider their importance. …If we forget the deeds of our forebears, we discard the lessons of history and take a step backward in the march of civilization. In themeasure a genearation cherishes, so will it be for the future; for the love of country; for reverence of the flag; for the efforts of upbuilding the Nation. recovering the Lost Trail has a deeper meaning than merely gratifying a whim or satisfying a feeling of curiosity.” Ezra Meeker: 1915
Most emigrants appreciated the enormity of their overland journey, but many were too busy establishing new lives to recognize the long-term significance of the endeavor. However, Ezra Meeker, emigrant of 1852, was a notable exception. Meekers’s unique witness of the nation’s expansion inspired him to mount a campaign to recognize and mark the route of the Oregon Trail. Knowing that actions are louder than words, Meeker hitched a team of oxen to a wagon, and between 1906-1908 set numerous monuments along the route of the trail from the Dalles, Oregon to Omaha, Nebraska. One of Meeker’s markers may be seen near the entrance of this park. In 1923 President Warren G. Harding also dedicated a second Oregon Trail monument here.
December 28, 2002
Farewell Snake River
Oregon Trail emigrants traveled through the Snake River country for over 300 miles. Hardship and danger were constant companions, and death, particularly at river crossings, was not uncommon. The river also sustained life, however, providing water and fish in abundance. For many emigrants along with Cecilia Adams and Parthenia Blank, emigrants of 1852, bidding “farewell Snake” at this site, parting was bittersweet.
“…we came on the Snake river bottom again, here I campt a very good place, a largte dry creek comes in here which has got good grass….There the road leaves Snake river and we see it no more only in the Columbia I was sorry for that for we have caught a number of fish Willie gets his hook and line in a morning and soon catches enought for breakfast for us we have travelled down it for about 360 miles it is a fine stream
Respite for the Weary!
Camp sites along the Oregon Trail were determined by the presence of water, grazing for livestock, or simply the end of a long, exhausting day. Although emigrants camped at Farewell Bend, a typical day’s journey brought emigrants from the Malheur river through the alkali desert to camp at nearby BirchCreek. Water was available along this route, but it was often tainted, and many along with Martha S. Read, emigrant of 1852, found themselves “most all sick from the effects.” Farewell Bend provided a welcome respite for emigrants recovering from the effects of bad water and other illness.
“…moved 3 miles to the river to get better water. found plentty of feed. The Indians have visited us every day and brought us fish. they appear fery friendly. We have had very warm days ever sionce we stopt here. To day we have had afew sprinkles of rain. There is an immense sight of sickness on the road. Lydia is getting sick today….” Martha S. Read; September 13, 1852.
The Cattle is Dying
The emigrant road from the Snake River Crossing to Farewell Bend was dry, dusty, and extremely arduous; it was also the end of the trail for many already exhausted oxen. George Belshaw, emigrant of 1853, noted that his “cattle is dying…some of them bleeds at the nose and dies in a few minutes after working through the day.” Water holes were few, and with the distance between them great, emigrants often faced a life-threatening dilemma: to press on and risk losing their teams to fatigue, or to stop and risk that they would die of thirst.
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“After cattle have worked all the way from the STATES here , they become weak and tired, and it does not take much to make them a load. Sometimes having a good feed, then poor, then none at all, is enough to try anything. We have come 12 miles and camped at Sulphur spring; a poor place with very little water and that inferior.” Samuel Handsaker; September 4, 1853
Hook, Line and Fishtrap
Rivers and creeks along the Oregon Trail supplied emigrants with both food and water, and the Snake River was no exception. although some emigrants employed hook and line , most found it easier to trade with the Indians. Long before the arrival of emigrants, local Indians had perfected techniques for harvesting the bountiful Snake River salmon.
“I have not observed that the Indians often atttempt fishing in the ‘big river’, where it is wide and deep; they generally prefer the slues, creeks, &c. Across these a net of closely woven willows is stretched, placed vertically, and extending from the bottom to several feet above the surface. A number of Inidans enter the water about a hundred yards above the net, and , walking closely drive the fish in a body against the wicker work. Here they are frequently become entangled, and are always checked; the spear is then used dexterously, and they are thrown out, one by one, upon the shore. With industry, a vast number of salmon might be taken in this manner.”
Eastbound Lane Opens
Gold was discovered in Idaho during the 1860s, and emigrants traveling westward often met prospectors heading east. Gold rushers seeking the most direct route to their bonanzs crossed the Snake River near farewell bend. In 1863 Reuben P. Olds, a local entrepeneur, realized substrantial profits from both emigrants and miners by establishing a ferry a few miles to the south. Old’s ferrry allowed emigrants to bypass the Snake River crossing near Fort Boise and follow an alternate route along the north bank of the river.
“Going seven miles we reach the ferry. It took all the fore noon to get our party across, only one wagon at a time, with one span of horses or one yoke of oxen, for which we paid $2.00 in gold dust or $4.00 in Green Backs, but with plenty of patience and still plenty of money we finally crossed. When the ferryman said, ‘here you are in a land of rain, grain, and big red apples,’ yet neither was realized only in anticipation.” Harriet A. Loughary; August 5, 1864
It was not easy for Oregon trail emigrants to account for everything that had to be unloaded and repacked at cmp sites or river corossings. some things, including family members, were accidentally left behind.
“…we left unknowingly our Lucy behind, not a soul had missed her until we had gone some miles, when we stopt awhile to rest the cattle; just then another train drove up behind us, with Lucy she was terribly frightened and so was some more of us, when we found out what a narrow escape she had run. she said she was sitting under the bank of the river, when we started, busy watching some wagons cross and did not know we were ready. I supposed she was in Mr. Carls wagon, as he always took charge of Frances and Lucy…when startign he asked for Lucy, and Frances says ‘shes in Mothers wagon.’ as she often came in there to have her hair combed.–it was a lesson to all of us.”
Old Fort Boise
December 18, 2001
|“Left our camp 2 miles above Fort Boise & passed the mud-walld Fort of Boise & the clerk was Kind enough to make us out a Sketch of the rout to walla walla.” (James Clyman, 1844).
Fort Boise was built by the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1834, in response to Nathaniel Wyeth’s Fort Hall, the stone he rolled into the garden of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company (A Majority of Scoundrels, Don Berry, p. 400). There is nothing on the spot today except a locally built monument, but that is very well worth seeing. I’m not going to show you everything. The object is to whet your appetite. There is a replica of the fort in the nearby town of Parma, ID. The site is easy to find and worth the trip.
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|THIS IS THE Oregon side of the crossing, showing the interpretive kiosk with a blowup of one of the interpretive panels. Again, there is more to see here. The arrow says the crossing is a mile east, but I couldn’t find it. I was stopped by a dead-end road, private property, and angry dogs. “We crossed to the south side of Snake River and camped about three o’clock. In crossing we tied the oxen to the stern of each wagon in front, at the same time a chain from the hind part of each wagon was made fast to the yoke of oxen in the rear. I thank God for the mercies that have attended us through all our difficulties.” Rev. E. E. Parrish (1844)|
Old Fort Boise
The Old Fort Boise site must be approached from Idaho; there is no bridge. It is kind of fun to go back through Parma and over to Adrian, Oregon, where you will find a South Alternate interpretive display. I didn’t even know there was a South Alternate till I did this trip. Franzwa’s directions allow you to follow the South Alternate for a few miles.
The next stretch, Keeney Pass, is relatively barren of modern improvements, so it will give a good idea of the terrain the emigrants encountered. Click on the red dots.Click on blue dots or the word Kiosk for the Interpretive Kiosk Tour Sites
Lewiston-Clarkston to Tri-Cities
October 23, 2001
On October 10, 1805 the Corps of Discovery crossed into what is now the state of Washington. They marveled at the spectacular vistas that, if we keep one eye closed, looks much the same as when Lewis and Clark traveled through this area. I have studied Lewis and Clark’s route through Washington for several years now and have become aware of the lack of attention to their journeys from the confluence of the Clearwater and Snake Rivers at Clarkston, Wa. to Sacajawea State Park just east of Pasco, Wa. There are books and articles by the thousands on just about every mile of their adventure, but very little is written on their trek across Washington, first by water in 1805 (westbound) and by land in 1806 (eastbound).After talking and working with the Washington State Dept. of Tourism this past summer (1998) I have decided to do a history on the expedition through Washington and the following is condensed from a future book of mine entitled “The Columbia River Connection: Lewis & Clark and the Oregon Trail”.
October 10, 1805 – the Corps enter Washington: “a fine morning loaded and set out at 7 oclock…arrived at a large Southerly fork or Lewis’s River (the Snake)…” This fork was called Tsceminicom (sign-MIN-ikum) by the Nez Perce, who wintered at this warm and sheltered canyon. Tsceminicom is where the Clearwater and Snake rivers meet: the Clearwater flows into the Snake from the West as the Snake makes its way from the North heading for the mighty Columbia.The Captains chose for their first campsite a location just north of the confluence, which is now near a copse of trees and a large stack of lumber. The scenery changed drastically from the rugged mountains and the Ponderosa pines to a treeless expanse of velvety canyons and short grassy hills. Their arrival here soon attracted the curiosity of the Indians who came from all directions to see these strangers. “Along the Snake Country the water about the forks is an open Plain on either Side I can observe at a distance…a high ridge of Thinly timbered Country the water of the South fork is a greenish blue, the North as clear as cristial…”. This night is spent with their new Indian friends and discussing the river that lay before them. Little did they know that the next 120 miles would be the most difficult to navigate since their portage around the Great Falls of the Missouri! They traveled 60 miles this day.
October 11, 1805 – “a cloudy morning We set out early and proceeded on…” The first point of interest came after about 8 miles west of their October 10th campsite.This was a village site of the Alpaweyma band of the Nez Perce at the mouth of Alpowai Creek. Here Clark says “we came to at Some indian lodges and took brackfast…” which consisted of, no not ham and eggs with a large orange juice, but rather dried salmon and Dog!Years later emigrants traveling along the Oregon trail would write in their diaries of having to eat the pet dog, and you will recall Maricus Whitman eating his daughters (Clarissa) dog on his midwinter journey back east to save his mission at WallaWalla. Sorry Rover! This was the first experience they had with dog meat and it would prove to be a staple of their diet until their return trip in 1806 back through the Bitterroots. After “brackfast” Lewis and Clark hired three Palouse Indians to guide them through the rapid and swift running water of the Snake River. “The Country on either Side is an open plain level and fertile after assending a Steep assent of about 200 feet not a tree of antykind to be Seen on the river…the day worm.” That night they camped near two Indian lodges at the mouth of Alomta Creek, a favorite fishing site of the Almotipu band of Nez Perce. This is near the present town of Almota, Washington, where Henry H. Spalding, the son of Henry and Eliza Spalding, owned a hotel for several years. Henry was the first male born to American citizens in the Pacific NW. He is buried at the Spalding Cemetery with his wife and two of their children, both dying in their infancy. This day they traveled 30 miles.
Sorry, your browser doesn’t support Java(tm). October 12, 1805 – “a fair Cool morning we Set out at 7 o’Clock and proceeded on…” Where Deadman Creek meets the Snake River, Clark notes “here the country assends with a gentle assent to the high plains and the River is 400 yards wide…” After bouncing through long and dangerous rapids the Indians told them that there was more to come; “verry bad about two miles in length and maney turns necessary to Stear Clare of the rocks…” As it was now getting late they decided to set up camp below the mouth of Alkali Flat Creek which is near the town of Riparia, just west of Little Goose dam.Their campsite was at the head of Texas Rapids which is now below the backwater of Lower Monumental dam. Clark writes “Country as yesterday open plains no timber of any kind…The hills or asscents from the water is faced with a dark rugged Stone…” These open plains were about 200 feet above the river on each side and the lack of timber was a result of their now being in the arid Great Columbia Plain. The dark rugged stone is basalt (molten lava) which extends for hundreds of miles and are several hundred feet thick. The men were tired and soaked to the skin. The Texas Rapids could wait until tomorrow! Again, 30 miles were navigated through this swirling, boiling river.
October 13, 1805 – The corps awakens to a “windey dark raney morning The rain commenced before day and Continued moderately…” Before departing, Captain Lewis scouted the entire length of the rapids. With the Indian pilots guiding the canoes (dugouts) through two miles of rapids, they made it again without incident. Are these guys good or what? They proceeded on for another two miles or so before they encountered another series of whitewater rapids, which would bring them to the mouth of the Tucannon River. When looking at the Snake River today, it is impossible to visualize the mile after mile of rapids the Corp of Discovery had to negotiate and as William Clark noted “we should make more portages if the Season was not So far advanced and the time perious to us.” Throughout, the country remained much the same, all high dry prairie and rolling, wrinkled hills. After passing the Tucannon River, on their larboard side (left) the Snake becomes crowded with rough basalt rocks which created another rapid four miles in length and here the river was compressed into a narrow channel of about 20 yards wide! After shooting these rapids, they came to the mouth of a very large river on their starboard side (right) which they named Drewyer’s River in honor of George Drouillard, a civilian member of the Expedition. We now know this river as the Palouse and at the mouth is Lyon’s Ferry State Park, which at that time was a very large Palouse Indian village. Authors note: the Mullan Military Road also came through this area, in the 1860’s, as it wound itself along the river and heads northeast towards the Spokane River.In 1964, when the railroad built a bridge over the river, a Jefferson Peace Medal was found in a cemetery which had been given to Chief Kepownkon by Lewis and Clark. This medal can be seen at WSU in Pullman, Washington. About one mile up the Palouse River from Lyon’s ferry bridge is Marmes Rock Shelter where deposits of human bone were found and which date back 10,000 years! Artifacts such as weapon points, bone needles and alivella shells were also found. Lewis and Clark saw no Indians here so proceeded down the Snake, when suddenly two Palouse appeared on horseback. The Indians followed the corp to their next campsite which is near Ayer, Washington on the south side of the Snake. Another physically exhausting day had ended with the corp traveling only 23 miles.
October 14, 1805 – “A verry cold morning wind from the West and Cool…” At this point you begin to wonder if the men, upon awakening, felt the same passion and sense of adventure that had marked each of their pervious mornings, knowing that more rapids and the cold, numbing dampness was once again waiting for them! After two and a half miles they came upon one of the few landmarks that impressed them enough in this area to name it. Now Monumental Rock just NE of Magallon, Washington, Lewis writes “a remarkable rock very large and resembling the hill (hull) of a ship.” Lower Monumental Dam takes its name from this landmark which is on the South side of the Snake River. After a distance of 12 miles the head of a rapid appears, larger and more dangerous then ANY of the prior rapids they had encountered! It just doesn’t seem to be getting any easier for the expedition! This newest challenge was at least three miles in length and it is here that the odds finally caught up with the corp. Three of the dugouts got stuck and the fourth hit a rock. Disaster struck at pine rapids where the river was parted by a rock island. The dugout that “drewyer” (Drouillard) was steering struck a large rock and sank, the men scrambled onto the rocky isle but lost some of their equipment. Another canoe was sent to rescue both the men and whatever supplies could be salvaged. Patrick Gass says “all wet and some articles were lost. We halted on an island to dry the baggage having come 14 miles.” This island was at the Pine Tree Rapids, just downstream from Burr Canyon and now inundated by Lake Sacajawea. Thus ended the most exciting day they had since leaving their camp at Tecmincum.
October 15, 1805 – This morning was “fair…after a Cold night. Some Frost and ice.” Hunters were sent out and the baggage continued to dry while at the same time Captain Lewis scoured the plains and saw at a distance of about 60 miles a mountain range we know as the Blue Mountains. Within a period of less then forty years the great migrations to the “West” would bring the pioneers by the tens of thousands across these same mountains along what was to become the Oregon Trail.The hunters came back with no food and with Captain Lewis pointing the way, the Corp of Discovery set out once again. After traveling several miles they were again approached by the Palouse Indains near a basin where the water was quiet and resembled a lake. Here again they warn the corp of the dangerous rapids ahead! Would these rapids never come to an end? Will they accompany us all the way to the Ocean? These must have been some of their thoughts as they listened to the Palouse! This was to be a short day, as they hadn’t left their prior camp until 2 PM and daylight was nearly gone. It was decided to make camp at Rattlesnake Flats which is at the head of the perilous Fishhook Rapids. Again they were on the starboard side (right) of the great Snake River. Captain Lewis would later enter this comment into his journal…”we only made 20 miles today owing to the detention in passing rapids &c.”
It took the Corp of Discovery five days to travel, with the current, a distance of less than 120 miles; whereas on the 10th of October they literally flew 60 miles down the Clearwater River!
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Coming back to the tripI suppose this stretch of the Snake River is considered as insignificant to most writers and readers as it appears that not much happened during this part of the grand adventure. However, the Corp of Discovery definitely would state otherwise!
September 9, 2001
On Sept. 24, 1852 twin sisters Cecilia Adams and Parthenia Blank wrote:
“In about 4 miles more over hills came to Snake River for the last time. Here it runs through lofty and inaccessible mountains. so farewell Snake–Traveled over high mount to Burnt River 4 miles. Here we stopped and fed our cattle on dry grass…This river is fine clear water about 20 feet wide on an average and flows between very lofty mounts with just room to pass.”
|We often think of 1841 as the beginning of the Oregon Trail, but this sign shows how many white parties came this way earlier, blazing the way for the wagons.
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And, of course, these trails and camping spots were well known to the Indian tribes for thousands of years.
In the 1860s some emigrants came from Boise via the Payette River, crossed the Weiser River, and eventually the Snake at Olds Ferry ( slightly upstream from here), which was established to serve traffic to and from the gold mines in the Boise, ID area.
“There is a large pack train camped at this place….We have crossed the Snake again & waiting for the balance of the wagons to come over. They make quick trips and drive two wagons with 4 horses on at a time.” (Mary Louisa Black, 1865)
The State of Oregon has a fine State Park here with camping and trail interpretation. There is also a motel, restaurant, and service station nearby.
From the park, go under I-84 to the west side and look for signs leading up to the Birch Creek overlook. To continue the physical journey turn right out of the park onto old Route 30. To continue the virtual trek click on the red dot by the name Burnt River.
Columbia River Connection
August 5, 2001
THE REASONING behind this website came from the need to inform my Northwest chapter of the Oregon – California Trails Association of the amazing connection between Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery and the Oregon Trail provided by the Columbia River. My reading and research resulted in an overpowering need of “personal discovery” into these remarkable journeys and over the past five years, has led me to the point of trying to put into words my feelings and sense of incredible awe of the men, women and children who set out on their own personal journeys of discovery.
There are always some genius and wise people, who go beyond the call of duty and want to do something for the society. They want to share their experiences and wisdom with others so that everyone can benefit. Monetary considerations are not that important for such people, and they want to be content and happy with what they have.
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Therefore, this website is my attempt to #1 bring more recognition to the Lewis and Clark journey through the state of Washington, #2 to bring awareness to my readers of the relationship of the Corps of Discovery with the Oregon Trail and #3 to show the powerful Columbia River at its height of glory. This time frame will cover the years 1805-1860 and hopefully make clear to the reader the Columbia River Connection: Lewis & Clark and the Oregon Trail. We also offer tours, lectures and character talks about Lewis & Clark, Oregon Trail, Mullan Road and other significant Pacific Northwest historical sites and trails. Go to Tours and Talks for more complete information.
At present we are up to Oct. 19, 1805. New stuff is coming soon, meanwhile perhaps you’d like to read about Chief Concomly’s Head. And be sure to check out the Photo Gallery for several new pictures.
You are visitor Hit Counter to follow the Columbia River Connection.
July 30, 2001
|These ruts are in the eastbound Deadman Pass rest area on I-84., looking back on the trail. Several tracks come together here. On August 8, 1866 S.B. Eakin, Jr. wrote:
“Marching as usual. Roads very rough. traveled all day on the top of the mountains. Road hilly. Camped at about 4 o’clock on the top of the mountains on the extreme west. A spring close up to camp. we are now through the timber and can see around us. Umatilla River is in sight. It lays north of us running west. Mount Hood directly west; also the Three sisters; all in the Cascades We are now very high up on the mountains.”
In this photo we are facing the right direction of emigrant travel. Ruts were verified by Jack Evans (Powerful Rockey).
This was Crawford Hill until July 12, 1878 when four freighters were killed in the Bannock War. Ever since it has been Deadman Pass.
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was the name given to Deadman’s Pass by Riley Root, an 1848 emigrant. The view is magnificent and the name a good one, but it never took on.
“Wednesday, Oct. 4th. Weather stormy; rain and hail. we got under way and traveled twelve miles down the west side of the Blue Mountains, when we struck the Umatilla River. went three miles down it, and encamped near some Cayuse lodges.” (James Nesmith, 1843)
OAG = DeLorme’s Oregon Atlas & Gazetteer
Once down from Deadman Pass there are no longer visible ruts because the city has taken over. Gregory Franzwa has proposed several possibilities in his Maps of the Oregon Trail. What I have labeled Rieth Rd. on the map is labeled Old Pendleton River Rd in the Oregon Atlas & Gazetteer. Take Exit 207 from I-84.
June 8, 2001
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